Considering the fact I’m traveling with a chef, this blog has been shamefully short on the culinary adventures we’ve enjoyed during our trip. I hope to rectify that moving forward, and there’s no better place to start than the Saichon Seafood Buffet, where we dined on our last night in Chiang Mai.
We ended up here on a recommendation from Ice, our tour guide at Elephant Nature Park. Ice is a chef in Copenhagen when he’s not at ENP (nice life, right?) so we were really excited to try his description of a local gem. He promised that it would be cheap, delicious, and plentiful. Can’t go wrong with that combo, right?
Well, plentiful it was. I was so overwhelmed I had to take a video.
We walked into this large open-air pavilion and sat down at a wooden booth -for sure the only tourists there. The first thing I noticed was our fellow diners’ tables covered in small and medium-sized plates and bowls of marinated raw meats, sauces, seafoods, veggies, condiments, and in the center a tabletop BBQ. The BBQ burned charcoal and had a moat of broth around it. Diners would grill their selected proteins on the tabletop BBQ and add vegetables, noodles and sometimes seafoods into the broth. When the meat was finished they’d transfer it into a medium personal bowl, add as much broth as they liked, whatever garnishes and condiments they wanted, and chow down.
Unidentified Moat Broth. Included here for posterity but mostly brought to you by Aleksiy’s chopstick face
We kinda stared at everybody else for awhile before a server (more of a BBQ facilitator than a server) came over and pointed out that we could just go to the buffet at the back of the restaurant and start selecting our dishes – everything here is one price, all you can eat, just go for it.
Dessert: Eight different flavors of cubes with questionable viscosity – you grow to love it, promise
Aside from the salad bar, there were no less than 10 stations of different types of food, and a WHOLE TABLE devoted to condiments. I think we both appeared hesitant, so one of the facilitators kindly walked us thru the stations, although I didn’t understand 1/3 of what she said. None of the offerings were labeled (and remember, I’m allergic to sesame), so I was really lucky to be with Aleksiy who either recognized what things were, volunteered to try stuff, or unabashedly asked someone standing nearby. We filled up a tray each, and headed back to our table where the BBQ facilitator had the charcoal rolling.
Turns out Aleksiy’s pretty good at grilling, and I’m REALLY good at dunking veggies and noodles in broth, so we made a pretty great duo for this lil outing.
Our facilitator took a cube of something greasy (lard?) and rubbed it all over the surface of our BBQ, leaving the melty remnants at the very top/center. She then took a pitcher of broth (veggie stock?) and poured it into the moat. She grabbed some of our meats and arranged them on top of the grill, then a chopstick full of veggies and noodles for the broth. A couple of broad smiles and deep nods from us convinced her that we weren’t going to burn the place down and she left us to our devices. Aleksiy was in heaven.
The juices of whatever was grilling on top would runoff into the moat- a literal flavor saver
We went back to the buffet a couple (OK 3) more times, once we figured out what we really liked. Our BBQ facilitator would come back over and make sure our charcoal was hot enough, that we had enough broth, and occasionally clear away the embarrassing collection of plates that were piling up. It ended up being SUPER CHEAP – if I remember correctly it was only $5/person. Ice FTW.
I love elephants. Always have, since back in the late 80’s when they had a pair tucked away on the backside of the Henry Doorly Zoo. Emotionally intelligent and capable of rich social lives, elephants organize themselves into familial structures (led by a matriarch, woo!) to which they stay loyal their whole lives. They team up to protect newborns; they mourn their dead; they recognize old friends. Mothers designate a godmother to help care for her offspring and take over should she die before her baby is mature enough to take care of itself. I could nerd out on elephants all day, the more I learn – I can’t help it.
Two of my favorite things
It breaks my heart to see elephants exploited for human entertainment. Sadly, much of this mistreatment is a direct product of the fascination people have with the animals. Most of the elephants you see performing at the circus, giving rides, or marching in a parade were separated from their mother at a young age and forced to endure a tortuous domestication training specifically designed to crush their spirit (google: Phajaan). This is why places like the Elephant Nature Park are so special. The park allows animal lovers the opportunity to get up close using an ethical, kind approach, and teaches us how to contribute positively to the welfare of this endangered species.
ENP rescues abused, traumatized, sick, old, or otherwise exploited elephants by basically buying them out of their current situation. Every elephant has a story, some are absolutely heartbreaking (check out Jokia’s story – gahh), others are more, eh, bureaucratic. The park is supported by the income it makes from daily visitors, tours, and week-long volunteer opportunities, plus direct donations from Save Elephant Foundation and the Serengeti Foundation (a 501(c)(3) for US donors), and, most importantly, by getting the word out (more on this below).
Watermelon, Little Bush & Big Bush – my babies for the day
Aleksiy and I hit the jackpot the day we visited; not only did we have a great guide (Ice), but miraculously we were the only 2 people signed up for our tour. We got to spend all day with 3 elephants: Maateaw (Little Bush), an 18 month old male, Pumnoiu (Big Bush), his 30-year old mom, and Teangmo (Watermelon), his pregnant godmother.
Ice & Little Bush
Arriving at the park had me feeling like I was in Jurassic Park. The bumpy back road opened up to a river valley dotted by small herds of elephants, free ranging all over the valley. I was awestruck and could not wait to get closer. When we got out of the van and I realized we’d be spending the day with a baby elephant, I nearly had to put my head between my knees. We changed into loaner clothes and set off to meet our crew.
Just a tad excited
Our introduction to Big Bush, Little Bush, & Watermelon began by feeding them large laundry baskets full of fruit (positive conditioning). Ice warned us that Little Bush could be naughty, and to be a bit careful around him. This worried me, but I quickly saw what he meant – rather than waiting for Aleksiy and I to offer him fruit, he started diving face first into the basket, totally unaware of his size/strength and our personal space/balance. We quickly gave up and offered him the whole thing, it was funny to watch him dump it out and sloppily go for it, almost like a human toddler would’ve. The older girls were much more patient and gentle, the dexterity with which they accepted the fruit and curled it into their mouths was impressive. When the baskets were empty they gently searched our hands and pockets, confirming with their trunks that all the fruit was gone.
No manners, this guy
After their snack we took them on a hike up the side of the valley. The herd rolled around in some mud to cool themselves off in preparation for the walk. Our hike lasted about 2 hours with a stop for lunch, and the elephants kept their mahouts busy by wandering off and making their own path. I quickly understood why Little Bush had a cowbell on. The gentle giants were so sweet and Little Bush continued to demonstrate his playful spirit and carefree lack of boundaries.
When we returned to the valley it was time to give the herd a rinse –giving us all a much-needed break from the heat. They loved the water – Watermelon laid down and rolled over, allowing us to wash chunks of mud off her back. Little Bush would disappear completely, using his trunk as a snorkel, swing it around like a helicopter, and slap the water it with it, splashing us. They reminded me of big happy dogs, so playful and good-natured.
After the rinse we changed back into our normal clothes and got to feed them one more time. Little Bush allowed himself to be handfed this time, but insisted that we peel his bananas or he’d throw them on the ground. If we weren’t moving fast enough he’d go straight to the source. Goofball!
The more time we spent with our elephants, the more their personalities shone through. I fell in love with their big eyes and long eyelashes, the happy wagging of their ears and the friendly touch of their trunks.
After the feeding we said our goodbyes and Ice gave us a tour of the rest of the facility. We met several other groups of elephants, scars of their past abuse clearly visible. We met an elephant that was blinded on purpose by an angry mahout. We met one elephant that was crippled by an illegal logging accident, another that had part of it’s leg blown off by a landmine. Several had scars and holes in their ears from the hooks their previous mahouts used. It was sad, but I just kept reminding myself that these elephants got their happy ending.
This elephant was injured by a landmine while working in the illegal logging tradeThis is Lucky, she was blinded by a spotlight during her years as a circus elephant. Still sweet though.
There are only about 30,000 Asian elephants left on the planet, and of those, approximately 20% are in captivity. Without our help, they will be extinct within our lifetime. Here are some ways you can help the Elephant Nature Park on their mission, taken from their website:
Visit the park, or tell your family and friends that they are welcome to visit our website and park., or sign up as a volunteer.
Follow us,Tweet and share our activities on our social network community.
Serengeti Foundation has helped Elephant Nature Park since our inception. US residents may click to donate here and claim 501(c) tax relief.
Let people at home know that there are only 30,000 Asian Elephants left on the planet. (Imagine this in human terms, as under a third of a sports stadium crowd)
Do not support elephant poachers by buying ivory or skin products whether allegedly legally obtained or not . Demand causes death to these innocent creatures.
Write a story for your local newspapers describing the plight of the elephant and how we can all assist in their survival
We arrived in Chiang Mai around 7PM after a delightful Bangkok Airways experience (they had a lounge at the Mandalay airport with FREE SUSHI – I can’t tell you how life changing that is after 2 weeks of Burmese food). Took a cab directly to Rosa Place, our guesthouse a couple blocks outside the ancient city walls of Chiang Mai’s old town area. Rosa Place was recommended by our friends Matt and Brooke, and I could not wait to meet Rosa, who had been described as nothing short of really, really fun.
Well, the rumors were true. The first night we arrived Rosa threw a party for some of her friends who had just won a motocross championship. One minute it was just Aleksiy, Rosa & I, the next, we were joined by a dozen excited local kids and about 20 platters of food Rosa whipped up out of nowhere. After decimating the food, we moved on to meet some of Rosa’s other friends at an expat bar down the street. I was absolutely delighted to discover that Rosa’s crew at this bar was a pack of gorgeous, outgoing and witty lady boys. They were in 4 inch heels and miniskirts, kicking everyone’s asses at pool and talking smack. I sincerely regret having no photographic evidence of this evening, but I do remember we finally got sent home when our friend/fellow Rosa Place inhabitant Dylan attracted a cop’s attention for playing his guitar outside the bar.
The next morning we woke up and went on a self-guided (aka aimless wandering) tour of the Old Town, which is filled with restaurants, shops, bars, hotels, and other tourist attractions and activities.
Inadvertent ‘surprise face’ upon trying the SOUREST home-brewed kombucha I have ever tasted. We drank the whole thing, because I love sour and I love kombucha, but this stuff seriously gave me heartburn.
When we got back, Dylan was gearing up to meet some friends at Huay Tung Tao, a lake about 20 minutes north of the city. With some encouragement from Rosa, Aleksiy and I decided to join. We borrowed a moto & some helmets from a friend of Rosa’s, and after Aleksiy took a few practice laps, we were off.
I was initially very hesitant to rent a moto for street driving – I had read some horror stories – but once you start traveling you realize that those stories are exceptions to the norm. Renting a bike is inexpensive, they’re relatively easy to drive, and once you have your own means of transportation your possibilities for exploration are endless. All it takes is a little homework to find a reputable rental company (or just get one from your hotel/homestay). I am grateful to Rosa & Dylan for calming my fears because the rest of our trip has benefitted immensely (not to mention we’ve saved a TON of time, money and irritation by avoiding all-day, all-inclusive tours).
The lake (once we found it) was awesome. Little bamboo huts hovered just over the waterfront – you could help yourself to one and lounge there all day, ordering food & drink from nearby BBQ stands. There were people hanging out everywhere, playing guitar, flirting, eating BBQ, playing with friendly stray dogs and drinking cold beers. The lake looked kinda dirty so we didn’t swim, but we stayed until the sun started to set and headed back to the city before it got too dark.
Met this cutie at Huay Tung Tao
The next day we went about 45 minutes outside of Chiang Mai to hike Mae Sa Waterfall, which is actually 10 layers of waterfall with pools that you can chill in at the base of each one. It was great fun for a hot day, albeit a little bit crowded – being a popular picnic spot for large families.
Where’s Waldo? Traversing a bridge at base of the first level of the falls. This is the only photo we have of Mae Sa because we decided to leave the camera safely locked away.
We returned to the city and went to bed early in order to be up bright and early for an excursion I had been eagerly looking forward to for months: ELEPHANT DAY!! (which deserves it’s own post, so stay tuned…)
Tales of a Southeast Asian Invasion 